I am deciding between a 1998 Ford Explorer 4x4 and a 1999 Ford Windstar. Help!?
Question: Both have 6 cylinders. Both are automatic. However, the Windstar has 4speed w/OD. The Explorer has 4 wheel drive rear and the Explorer has 2 wheel drive front. These are the areas of my concern. Which is better as a family commuter vehicle? The other minor concern is the 98 Explorer racked up 125K miles and the 99 Windstar only 105K. The 20K miles difference in one year on a car that is 13 years old may be a factor as well. Does anyone have any advice for me please? Thanks very much. Thank you to all who have answered so far. Thanks for the quick response. Funny thing is the Ford Explorer is the first one I liked then I started comparing the others. I was worried about the 125K miles, but am happy that you all are confident with Ford's reliability. What do you know about the Jeep Grand Cherokee? All things being equal except the Jeep has 105K miles. That's the other one I just found. Thanks!
Best Answers: I am deciding between a 1998 Ford Explorer 4x4 and a 1999 Ford Windstar. Help!?
exploder. hands down.......... reliable, capable. windstar will get better mileage. not so capable. if you live in the hills or get snow, get the exploder. if all you do is ferry kids, shop, and work in a city (not sanfransisco), get the windstar. ====== EDIT to respond, "What do you know about the Jeep Grand Cherokee?" i feel a little disconnected when driving these. partially due to no road feel on the power steering and lack luster power from the 4.0 I6 engine. they *sometimes* have engine stumbling issues that can be difficult to pin point. despite the OBD systems. a bit touchy. they also incorporate a solid axle. not IFS like on the exploder and windstar. don't get me wrong. the jeep is far more capable than the other two, due to the SAS config alone. just not my idea of a daily driver. --------- but if you like to raise a little heckle on the week ends (4x4 off roading), the jeep is the best of the three. the jeep is a 4x4 trying to be civil on the street. the exploder is a street vehicle trying to be a 4x4. the windstar is just that. a FWD soccer mom vehicle. if you pull a trailer, the exploder is the way to go.
Well i guess i can help you out! Okay i have an 2001 windstar sel. Actually i have had two. Anyways, the door lock actuator on your driver door is bad. As for the passenger window its the motor. I replaced both actuators for some i got on Ebay (make sure u dont buy the door BLEND acutators) its the door lock actuators. They work fine, i fixed them like last Wednesday. Anyways the motor for the passenger door is bad. Maybe this website can help you with the brake problem www.fordwindstarrecall.info As for replacing the actuator. You have to pop out the window and lock controls, using a flat head screw driver or something similar to pry it up. Unplug both wires, (they have tabs). Then you have to remove five screws one behind a black cover (where mirror is attached to). Two in the handle bar. Two at the bottom of the door. When you have all the screws off pull the door panel up. It should slip out. Be careful with the lock thing. If you have the sel model with the red light near the bottom of the door panel, be careful removing the door panel because you have to unscrew a bulb from the panel. (Do it with your hands). After you have the panel off. Pull back the foam covering. I recommend unscrewing the whole latch from the door (three black screws) on the door jamb. Once you have that done. Unscrew the door handle from the inside (the exterior one). Careful wiggle out the metal thing that attaches to the door handle. Place the outside handle aside. Now with that done. CAREFULLY maneuver the whole latch assembly to where you can access the actuator (a black box type thing). Be careful with the physical lock thing that you see go up and down to indicate if the door is locked or unlocked. You have to mess with it, to get the latch loose. Its easier to do it this way, otherwise you would have the window track in the way. Once you see the actuator unplug the connection to it, and lift up a tab with a screw driver that will prevent it from coming out. With this up wiggle the actuator out. The replacement should have a peg type thing that fits into a hole into a white piece of plastic. (When the automatic locks activate it moves the peg on the actuator). The actuator should fit on a track type thing on the latch assembly. Pop the actuator back into this track with the peg lined up in the whole. Once you have this done, do everything in reverse order again. Make sure you get the tall physical lock indicator through the right hole, otherwise it will be impossible to get the latch back to its original spot. Remember when you reconnect the wires (for door ajar switch and the actuator) you have to do it through the area they were connected before, otherwise you will have the wires in the middle of the window track and the window won't go down all the way. With everything tucked back there attach the outside handle first, screw it in, than reattach the latch itself. Go to the passenger side door to test the keyless entry or press the remote. If it unlocks with out a problem you are set. Attach the door panel in reverse order as described above. GOOD LUCK... I SPENT A LOT OF TIME WRITING THIS BECAUSE THIS REPAIR WAS A PAIN IN THE *** FOR ME LOL!!!
Actually because you have a 4x4 the driveline and a crossmember will prevent you from just pulling the pan straight down with the wheels on the ground. You will have to lift the wheels off the ground and put the front end on jackstands to gain clearance. Then keep the floor jack handy because you may need to raise up the engine for a little more clearance, though some people can fanagle it out. Then it is the basic drain oil - unbolt pan steps above.
Without actually hearing the sound, I wouldn't be able to tell you. The only parts moving while the engine is running, while the vehicle is stationary, close to the driver side of the vehicle is the torque converter and front pump. But I don't think it would make a clicking sound. Sorry, but you may to go into a little more detail, regarding the condition under which the sound is heard, and maybe even the sound description itself.
windstars are horrible, horrible vehicles. im a service writer at an auto shop and i see them constantly. i had a 99 explorer that lasted me for [email protected] near forever, that would be my personal choice EDIT-- if the jeep has the 6 cyl 4.0L than it should be a good vehicle. the chrysler V8s in those grand cherokees are total junk. if possible i would go with the regular (baby) cherokee. those last forever as well
Because the backup lights as well as the brake lights are not working, you can bet that the far more likely cause is burned out or broken fuses. The only way to be sure that the bulbs are good is to light them up with a direct 12 volt connection. Looking at the filaments won't cut it. Yes, that vehicle and all others has a specific fuse for that circuit. You need to make sure that it or they are not burned before you waste your money on the pedal switch, which almost never goes bad. It is extremely rare for a brake pedal switch to go bad. They can however get out of adjustment more often. If you can't find the fuse box, you need to.
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