How do I insulate my mobile home?
Question: I have a 1968 Fleetwood Mobile Home that I live in next to a Expressway in California, believe it or not it gets chilly and noisy. The inside is wood panel and the outside the typical metal paneling. We don't want a big mess we have new wall to wal carpeting and new interior and exterior paint. I want to insulate it quick, easy and no mess.
Best Answers: How do I insulate my mobile home?
I own a mobile home warranty service business, and I have personally, done the type of work you are asking about. I will warn you up front, that this is going to take some work. I went to a home, that someone decided to park on the very top of a steep hill.... constant wind ... and they wondered why they had drafts, heheheh.... Well, to insulate the home better against the wind, I removed the outside metal sheathing, a section at a time. (most of this stuff is just stapled, and screwed on.) You will run into screws around the windows, any 'decorative' window trim, and vent flanges, like a range vent. As I removed each section, I took a caulk gun, or a can of expanding foam, to the backside of the interior walls, to seal them.... I went thru a LOT of caulk, and foam, hehehe. I also added fiberglass insulation as needed... in many of these homes.... if an electrician needed to work in an area, they simply ripped the insulation out.... so you may have areas of your home with no insulation at all. You can replace the sheetmetal using a small staple gun, and screw gun. You should be able to line the pieces back up to their original locations, as long as you do not try to take too many off at once. Note, the sheetmetal actually has to be able to breathe... you need some air movement behind the sheetmetal, to remove condensation. This is why I always approach this type of task from the outside. Other steps you can take.... buy foam insulaters to go behind receptacle and light switch covers. Dont forget underneath the home... check for holes in the underbelly... replace any missing insulation under the home, and seal those holes. You can buy new underbelly plastic, in pre-glued patches,or strips, from most mobile home supply stores. IF you remove the inside paneling... do NOT caulk against the outer sheet metal... as I said, it has to 'breathe'. What you CAN do, is apply a heavy plastic sheeting to the studs, before you put the paneling back in place. You can buy this in 6 mil thicknesses, in rolls, at any hardware store. Then apply caulk to the backside of the paneling.... this can get messy, but if youre careful, it can be done. I recommend using a latex caulk, rather than a silicone caulk. Silicone will last longer... but... it takes longer to 'cure', and you have to live with a pretty strong odor until it does. Latex caulk is easier on the nose, and eyes, inside a home, and since you are not exposing it to the elements, it will work just fine. If you prefer to use the expanding foam, use DAP... NOT GreatStuff.... the Dap product is water clean-up.... Greatstuff, you wear until its worn off, lol You will find that a tube of caulk goes a lot farther than a can of expanding foam. I liked to caulk around the paneling, against the studs, and use the expanding foam, around the electrical boxes, and to help fill holes drilled thru the floor. Also check the obvious areas for air leakage.... improperly aligned doors and windows. This is a mobile home... all of those windows and doors are meant to be adjusted when necessary. Apply new weatherstripping, also. Have Fun
I am no expert, but it sounds like the deed never got recorded at the county tax assessor's office. If you handled the sale through a realtor, the realtor or the title company should have taken care of this. If this was a face-to-face deal where it was just you and the buyer, then it was the buyer's responsibility, I would think. Go down to the assessor's office, and ask them what needs to be done to get this guy's name on the tax rolls. Ask what happens if the buyer refuses to register the property in his name. If he doesn't do this, ask if you can reclaim the property somehow. That might be enough to force the buyer to get off the fence and do something about it.
Thermal pane windows will pay for them selves in a few years and and insulated skirting will make an even bigger difference in your heating bill. The soil under your trailer stays well above freezing and insulation can actually make the air underneath much warmer. You will also have a savings with your hot water heater if the incoming water is less frigid. The roof foam will work just fine if you keep it dry. If you are in a snow fall area, after the first big snow, bank up the skirting with snow as high as you can. Snow is an excellent insulator. You can also buy window insulating kits at most hardware stores that consist of plastic film and either tape or tack strips that you can put inside or outside the windows. The idea is to create a dead air space that does wonders for keeping cold and drafts out. Check all your door seals. There are stick on foam strips in varying thicknesses available you can add around the door sills as well.
No, by law that is considered trespassing. You need to inform the mobile home park manager to not enter your home without you knowing - you have been a long-standing tenant and you own the home so they have no right to tell you how many pets you can have. If they continue to harass you over the matter, sue them for harassment and trespassing because it's ILLEGAL for people to enter someone's home without their knowledge. I would inform the new owners that the site manager has trespassed on your property, and that you should notify them of what you will do if it continues.
This Site Might Help You. RE: How do I insulate my mobile home? I have a 1968 Fleetwood Mobile Home that I live in next to a Expressway in California, believe it or not it gets chilly and noisy. The inside is wood panel and the outside the typical metal paneling. We don't want a big mess we have new wall to wal carpeting and new interior and exterior...
There are a lot of good answers herein, but I would stay away from straw as insulation. It works very good but in addition to mice you also generate a sizable fire hazard. Old mobile homes used to have storm windows that fit on the inside of the windows and attached by swivel fasteners. These were to shut down the wind that came through the non-airtight windows. They fit like screens on the inside. You may want to check with a mobile home supplier, or even contact the manufacturer and see if they could obtain the storm windows for your use. (If the interior storm windows are not found or to expensive, I have used Plexiglas panels, cut to lap cover the windows on the inside and they worked fine. If you have screen frames, I have duct taped the plexiglas panels to the frames, complete perimeter, and fastened them in place inside the windows. They, plexiglas sheets or frames can be caulked or taped in place. To keep the caulking / tape off your walls you might put up temporary wood trim.) If the insulation you have does not absorb water it would assist in heat control. Additional insulation, non-absorbing, should be installed at the complete home perimeter to be most effective. Tape the insulation joints and provide additional support if you skirting is not stable with the new loading. Small stakes wedged in place should suffice. You may also want to have a service person check out your furnace to verify that it is working at its maximum efficiency and replace your filters. Although it isn't attractive, duct tape all joints in your windows. Doors to modular homes frequently do not seal tightly after a few years of use and settlement. If your doors do not seal well it could be because the home is twisted slightly. Check the unit level and proceed as necessary. Adjust the door latches to assist in completing a good seal. Install weather striping for all the entry doors. If you have any rooms that do not have water lines in them that are not being used close their doors and close their heat vents. Turn your thermostat back on nights where freezing is not an issue. Always open any cupboards under lavs and sinks before turning in each cold evening where freezing temps are possible. As someone suggested, should you get snow, pile it up around your home up to the as high as 6" on the siding completely around your home. Be careful not to dislocate your skirting. Direct all your efforts on the side of the predominant winds in your area. Replacement windows would take a long time to pay for themselves. The new windows would be very effective but the overall insulation capability of the walls, roof and floor would overcome any major window advantages. Should you have large areas of vinyl flooring, obtain throw rugs or other carpeting to cut down the cold radiating through the floor and provide insulation. They will make it seem warmer also.
If you have your own answer to the question How do I insulate my mobile home?, then you can write your own version, using the form below for an extended answer.