Rear wheel on van locked up...?
Question: The real driver's side wheel on my van locked up, does anyone know what it is? Could it be that it is froze because it is so freakin cold outside? HELP.... I don't think that it is the bearings. I live in WV where the weather has turned warm to cold almost every other day. I think it has something to do with the brakes. We have rocked back and forth to try to break it lose, didn't work. Anything else we can do? Please help all....
Best Answers: Rear wheel on van locked up...?
Basically one of three things could be your problem. Yes cold outside will cause a wheel to lock up if it had water on the brakes and it's gotten cold. Another thing, the brake on that wheel may be locked up by either a stuck wheel cylinder or stuck parking brake cable. Last, a bad wheel bearing will cause a wheel to lock up. Hope this helps. I also live in WV so I believe the problem lies with the parking brake. Pull the rear wheel and see. If the drum doesn't come off or is difficult to remove, then it's a brake problem like I said either a stuck parking brake cable or stuck wheel cylinder. I've had brakes to lock up when the rubber hose that goes to the front wheels has a loose lining and won't release pressure. Since this is the back, both wheels would be locked up if this was the problem. If you succeed in getting the brake drum off and the brakes aren't locked up, then try turning the axel and shaking it from side to side. A lot of side play or locked axel is a sign of a stuck wheel bearing.
sometimes the flexible brake line will collapse allowing you apply pressure to the brakes but it will not release.
Wv, I have a vacation house there in Hampshire County, Capon Bridge to be exact, It is not a frozen wheel cylinder, count that out, it is possible the parking brake cables froze if you put the parking brake on.
Quite the opposite -- in extreme low traction situations, a locked diff is a significant safety feature. Here's how it works. A normal differential (sometimes called an "open differential") allows the two wheels on an axle to spin at different speeds, such as when going around a corner. Think about it: as you make a turn, the wheel on the outside is traveling much farther than the wheel on the inside, but it has to do it in the same time -- therefore the wheel on the outside turns at a higher speed. On a dry road, this is a fine thing; it keeps your tires from wearing out. But on a wet, slippery, or icy road, sometimes one wheel will start to spin because it has no traction. An open differential can't tell the difference between a wheel spinning faster because it's going around a corner, and a wheel spinning faster because it's stuck on an icy patch. Meanwhile the wheel that has grip stands perfectly still, because the diff is doing its job of letting one wheel go faster than the other. So you sit there, whizzing one tire and going nowhere. A locked differential disables the open-differential feature and makes sure that both wheels spin at the same speed no matter what. This way, if one wheel drives over a patch of ice, both wheels will distribute the driving force equally because they are locked together. Now, on dry pavement, a locked differential can cause some problems -- particularly with tire wear. When you make a corner in the dry with a locked differential, the inside tire is forced to make the same number of revolutions as the outside tire, even though the path it takes is shorter. This means the inside tire is going to spin, slightly, and this will wear the tire out more quickly. Some manufacturers allow differentials to be locked and unlocked under specific conditions. For example, my wife's Audi quattro has a switch to let us lock the rear differential; however, it automatically disengages at speeds above 15 mph. It's designed to provide the safety of a locking differential for getting started on snowy, wet or muddy roads, while still providing the benefits of an open differential once you're in motion. Another way of letting a differential change its locking mechanism depending on conditions is called a limited-slip differential. The idea there is that limited-slip differentials use some mechanism to reduce the difference in speed between the inner and outer wheels. In practice this generally means they go around corners easily in the dry, but don't spin one wheel in the wet or snow. My Subaru WRX, for example, has limited-slip differentials in the center and rear positions, with the result being that a hard launch in muddy or snowy conditions results in instant forward motion, not a whirring sound as the wheels spin while the car stands still. (I compete in a sport called rallycross, which involves driving as quickly as possible around a tight, twisty course laid out on a grassy or muddy field, so I can do this without being irresponsible enough to try it on a public road.) The thing to remember, though, about AWD/4WD vehicles is that they do NOT make anybody a better driver, nor do they suspend the laws of physics. They allow you to get going in conditions where other vehicles may be stuck, but AWD does nothing to help you stop in the same conditions. In the words of Peter Parker's uncle, "With great power comes great responsibility." Best of luck!
If you set the park break, than it is probably frozen on. Wet roads and cold nights will cause the water to freeze inside the wheel or cable. Here in Alaska most people will not use their park break during winter. Once it has freed up, drive with slight break pressure to heat up and dry the breaks. If it is a cable sticking you will need to get it warmed and lubricated to prevent future freeze problem.
If all other things are equal, (and they rarely are), the front-wheel drive car would be slightly better. But the best car for icy roads is the one that stays parked. Remember: all cars have four-wheel brakes. It doesn't help on icy roads. Do you really have to travel?
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