What are the double hung windows called that have an upper sash shorter than the bottom?
Question: I saw double hung windows. The top sash is about 1/3 smaller than the bottom sash. What are they called? Who sells them?
Best Answers: What are the double hung windows called that have an upper sash shorter than the bottom?
I believe they are called "cottage style". Most (if not all) major window manufacturer's sell them (i.e. Andersen, Pella, Marvin). They may be special order though.
If it is not in a bind, and can move freely... it is just too heavy to lift... then you can adjust the tension spring. The tension spring is in the side channel of the window...usually behind a piece of trim. Pop the trim out, and you can access the spring. Some windows are easier to adjust with a tool just for this purpose. Typically, the spring can be wound tighter, to get more lift, or loosened up to drop faster. Both sides need to be about the same amount of tension, to keep the window tracking properly. On occasion, the clip/retainer that holds the spring in place will break...then you have no tension at all, hehehe... you can usually find replacement parts wherever the windows are sold. If the window binds any, or does not slide easily, a little furniture wax will help lubricate the track. NOTE - use WAX on the track for VINYL windows.. do NOT use petroleum products (most silicon sprays also contain oil)....the petroleum will attack the vinyl. The vinyl window manufacturers I have worked with all say you will void any warranty by using these types of lubricants, and specifically call for wax product. If that doesnt work, hold a straight edge up against the frame... all four sides, and check for bind. If the frame bows in on the sides, it will actually pinch the window sash, and keep it from moving. In this case, the frame must be adjusted. Most of these windows are secured from the outside by screws...if they were caulked really well at installation, it may actually be necessary to remove the window, to break the seal (window to exterior wall), and to reset the window in the opening. Have Fun ******* Tapping the side? He may have been trying to force it out just a bit. Use that straight edge... hold it up against the side of the window, and see if the frame bows in at the middle. Check both sides. If it does bow in at the middle... it needs to be adjusted. Trim will have to be removed on the inside, to look for shims at that location, or expanded foam (Ive seen some people use too much foam and it actually forces the window frame to bow inwards). If the problem is foam, it can be gouged out pretty easily. If there is no foam, or shims, and the frame side is bowed in at the middle, the window will need to be adjusted/reset. I'd start by removing the retaining screws (from outside), down the sides of the window, and see if the frame sides pop back. If necessary, remove all the screws, and pull the window out of the opening. Re-caulk the opening, and re-set the window. Make sure the frame is square, and not in a bind. Then replace the trim, and any siding/exterior trim you had to remove to get to it... .all told this should take an hour or less. Windows and doors can become bound from the frame openings moving. Movement usually occurs from a home settling... all homes do this. Homes with little to no foundation will do it more. Any competent handyman can fix this for you, if you don't want to tackle it yourself. I used to travel quite a bit, fixing this type of thing. If the frame has shifted, then a simple tap won't work this time...it will take you just as long to check for bow as it will to tap the frame, hehe Again... Have Fun
Careful as you may have a single hung window that looks as if it is a double hung. Most times when a double hung window is paint-bound on the upper sash it is best to leave well enough alone. They seldom seat properly again and the innocent freeing of the upper sash snowballs into re-glazing or even worse replacing the window.
Hi. I have had recent experience with Lowes replacement windows and it was all good. They have a pamphlet that details how and where to take the measurements for replacement windows. They are ordered in eighth inch increments but they keep on hand ones for the popular sizes. The measurements given on the replacements are given two ways so be careful. Look for the small print that says 'actual size' and you will know exactly what they run. I bought mine with the maximum allowable excess measurements and this was a bonus in the end. It allowed me to have space to adjust the window for out of plumb conditions and the little bit of extra caulk did not look bad at all. The replacement windows come with a three quarter inch sliding shim to facilitate installation in the vertical. After I read the pamphlet and purchased the window was I glad I took on this project. It was very easy to accomplish and after the first window was a breeze. It requires caulking and some screwgun work but I was pleased with a professional look in the end. Hope this helps.
They are still called double hung. It would just depend on the manufacturer called that style (or their model) I know Andersen sells that type so I'm sure a lot of other brands do as well.
If the glass is cracked/shattered, it may not be covered under warranty. If there is only condensation between the panes, it is normally covered under warrant anywhere from 3 years to 10 years. Check your warranty. If the company no longer exists, you are out of luck and will have to pay for replacing the unit. Most glass companies can do this in a short time. They will come and measure the size required; and a few days to a week later (depends how long is takes to manufacture a new glass unit) come with a new glass unit and replace it.
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