How do I change focus while shooting a video?
Question: I have this compact digital camera (Canon IXUS 85 IS), but I want to buy a SLR that can film in HD. I want to change focus while I'm shooting. Example (the shot): Person1 is completely clear, while Person2, who's standing behind Person1, is blurry. Now changing focus to Person2 instead of Person1 Can my camera handle this, or should I buy a new one. And if so, which camera do you recommend?
Best Answers: How do I change focus while shooting a video?
It looks like you only have an "AutoFocus" (not manual focus) feature on this camera. You might be able to manipulate what you're focusing on though... try this: push the "take photo" button down half-way - it should grab focus on the largest subject within frame - then while you're still pressing the button (half-way), move your lens slightly toward the other object that you want in frame (but out of focus). You should have the picture that you're trying to attain by doing this, it might take some practice though. Keep in mind that you will get a smaller "depth of field" if you are farther away from your subject and zoomed in. A smaller depth of field is what you want, to capture this type of image. If you're really interested in photography (and want to upgrade away from a point-and-shoot) I suggest getting a low end DSLR for $300.
Look at what the professionals use. Under windy conditions, if you don't want that "low rumble" recorded to your audio tracks, you need to create a "dead space" between the mic element and the outside world - but not prevent the sound waves from getting to the mic element. Under certain, light wind, conditions, all that is needed is a foam windscreen. Any more than "light" and you need to use a "fuzzy" - also called a "dead cat". Basically, very fuzzy material is mounted to a "cage" and the mic is positined in that cage so there is space between the inside cage wall and the mic element. Another method is to us a "zeppelin". The same concept of creating a dead-space between the mic element and the outside world applies, but the zeppelins are not fuzzy. This zeppelin/dead cat/fuzzy approach assumes you are using a shotgun mic (typically at the end of a boom pole). Another method is to use a clip-on mic (lavaliere) that is under the *light* clothing of the person speaking - or if it is OK for the mic to be visible, there are "fuzzy" wind screens available. Of course, all these options assume your camcorder has a mic jack for external mic connectivity. If this is not the case and you need to rely on only the camcorder's built-in mics, that can be challenging - but the same concepts still apply... (1) Get the mic close to the person speaking; (2) create a dead-air space between the outside world and the mic elements. There are camcorder-specific fuzzies made, too... But your fuse is pretty short, so ordering anything is out of the question and most places to camcorders or pro-audio (like Guitar Center) don't carry these things. If you are in New York City, B&H Photo has a good selection. In each case, you can usually find decent fuzzy material (2 inch long, thin, "hair" is best.) at a local fabric store, make a cage on which the fuzzy material is to be mounted, mount the fuzzy material to the cage and mount the cage to the camcorder and cover the mics while having a dead-air space over the mics. Many consumer camcorders also have a "wind rejection" setting (removes low rumble). Check the camcorder's manual for that sort of audio optionality detail.
you need cameras that use longer focal length lenses to get any kind of selective focus effect. short of getting a motion picture camera, ie Arriflex, the best option is a dSLR. while a dSLR is far from optimized for video work, it will take lenses of the size necessary for selective focus to work. don't get an SLR camera, they use film and do not take video.
The electronics in non-camcorder cameras will not survive taking video that long. The simple fact is that the designers are expecting you to shoot small clips (perhaps 5–10 minutes each), and join them together in video editing software. The marketing specs (read: white lies) for the Panasonic camera are *very* generous estimates taken under ideal conditions. You will be very lucky to get the 45–50 minutes in the "actual recordable time" table, unless you're shooting lab demonstrations or other boring stuff. For long-haul shooting in the real world (e.g. concerts, sports games, family events), your only option is a decent camcorder.
Manually focus your lens. Ultimately you'll need CIne lenses which center of attention smoother and have more throw which permits the lens to center of attention extra steadily. Your lens could center of attention from 5'-15' by relocating the barrel of the lens 1/4 inch even as on a cine lens you must move it a much longer distance. Appear at Cooke lenses and you can see cinema lenses. The are painfully pricey however on the site you'll see the difference between those lenses and those in your camera.
The LCD cannot do what? Learn manual focus. Actually you don't want to use that large a lens for video, too much camera movement. Use a much wider lens, as in the 18-55 and walk to your subjects.... and do a manual focus prior to rolling video.
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